NYFW Recap Part 1: Bold Colors, Unique Textures, Innovative Designs
I break down the most interesting ready-to-wear from Black in Fashion Council at New York Fashion Week this seaon.
‘Jess Cloud’ top and ‘Jess’ skirt from Amari Carter. It must feel like a cloud.
The first time I attended New York Fashion Week was in 2022. When I received an invitation I was genuinely surprised. They’re inviting me to attend?! It was that rare opportunity to get to know the faces behind the brands. You know—a chance to make authentic connections with the people we emailed with every day.
Here’s the thing, in 2022 I was not just a fashion editor, I was an assistant fashion editor. Meaning I was responsible for managing the New York and Milan schedules of our senior editors, with the help of one other assistant. I wouldn’t be sticking around to bond with anyone at these events. Let me break it down a bit further.
My priorities during fashion week in 2022, top to bottom:
Meeting our regular newspaper and digital deadlines.
Confirming senior editors’ tickets, appointments and seating.
Confirming my tickets, appointments and seating.
Attending runway shows and appointments/viewing the collections.
Making connections with people at the events.
Many of us who are starting out in fashion are desperate to build genuine relationships with the people representing our favorite brands. However, we’re so preoccupied chasing down confirmations for our superiors we aren’t in the proper headspace to make the type of connections that stick.
Well, it is two years and four fashion months later, and I am putting myself at the top of the priorities list.
Off I went! Back in my favorite jacket by Japanese brand Kapital. In the LouLou Studio no-lapel blazer AGAIN, I know. The ribbed-white tank is Scanlan Theodore. Uniqlo skirt. Trusty CVS tights and Tod’s loafers.
This season I centered all my attention on my safe haven in the fashion world: Black in Fashion Council (BIFC).
Founded and led by Sandrine Charles and Lindsay Peoples Wagner, BIFC puts together a presentation each NYFW displaying the work of emerging Black designers. This allows us busy people to discover multiple designers in the span of one typical appointment (around 30 minutes). To me, BIFC at NYFW represents a safe place in the fashion industry, where connections are made in the spirit of true support rather than veiled competition.
Heading toward the entrance at High Line Nine, where BIFC held their showrooms this season.
I am splitting this post into two parts: ready-to-wear and accessories. Here in part one, three of the brands that displayed some of the most exciting and innovative ready-to-wear this season:
BruceGlen
Founded by twin brothers Bruce and Glen Proctor.
Sustainability-focused brand BruceGlen created a disco explosion inside High Line Nine’s stark white showroom.
Classic head-to-toe velvet and unique pattern and color contrasts:
Images via BruceGlen.
Conversational, electric, colorful. A few of my favorite pieces from the BruceGlen showroom:
Don’t let the abundance of funk intimidate you. I believe the key to rocking these looks is to fully commit. Instead of pairing the multi-color pencil skirt with a solid-color top, go for a head-to-toe rainbow-y display. For those of you who gravitate toward a more neutral color palette, I have the perfect brand for you.
Nia Thomas
New York-based brand founded by Nia Thomas.
The luxe lifestyle brand features hand-crafted pieces.
Nia Thomas created her clothing line after graduating from Fashion Institute of Technology.
Photographer: @juaahdz Model: @fernanda.alvrez @intheparkmanagement Stylist / Art Direction: @diamondmahone Makeup: @adrianglezc Production Assistant: @sp8ce.kadet
Inspired by her inner discovery and travels, her spiral motif can be seen throughout the collection.
What I love here is the variety. Neutral knits have a bad habit of being predictable, but each piece has a unique element that shows it was crafted with love. A spiral. A detail on the hem. The intentional placement of the paillette embellishments. Also, the designer was super lovely and kind. Her personality shines through her clothing.
Amari Carter
New York-based brand founded by Amari Carter.
‘Cynthia’ dress. I saw some of the most creative clothing structures I’ve seen in a single collection.
Amari Carter shows that sexy and tasteful are not mutually exclusive with this collection.
This dress is made entirely out of bra straps!
Some of my favorite lookbook moments from Amari Carter:
Images via Amari Carter.
The look below features a reversed corset. Also, check out the booty cutouts on the skirt. It’s a cool reversal of the typical hip cut-out look. Make sure you’re wearing the right underwear!
Below, a beautifully structured bustier top. This is a good choice for when you want to dip your toe in the sexy water:
Made with bra straps and boning, this top can be layered over a button-down shirt or under a blazer for a sophisticated rendezvous, and then delayered for a chic night out. Versatile pieces that still have a distinctive edge to them are always the closet winners.
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With that, thank you so much for being here! Next week I’ll be back with part two, featuring my favorite accessories from BIFC at NYFW this season. If you’ve been enjoying All-Year Season and have not yet subscribed below, I gently encourage you to join our mailing list! Until next week…
Yours Truly,
Kyoko
I am not compensated for the features listed in AYS. My sincerest thank you to the brands that participated in the creation of this post.
